Nuestros viajes - uno
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Well, we've arrived in Ireland and are currently setting up our lives here. Since we left Seattle in late October, we’ve had a transient existence, living out of suitcases and sleeping in unfamiliar beds. I’ll write an article about my observations on returning to Ireland in a later article, but for now, I wanted to focus on summarising the last few months of travelling, mainly on our adventures in Mexico City and Argentina. I’ll break this monumental task up into two articles; otherwise, I’ll never finish it!
We have always wanted to go to Mexico for Día de los Muertos, or Day of the Dead, the multi-day Mexican holiday honouring the dead that is traditionally celebrated on November 1st and 2nd. We combined this bucket list item with a desire to explore Mexico City and therefore planned to make a twelve-day trip with Day of the Dead somewhat in the middle.
We departed Seattle for Los Angeles on October 21st, 2023, to spend a few days with Dominique’s family and leave some belongings that we didn’t want to cart all around Central and South America behind us. Good call!
Since our flight to Mexico City was scheduled to leave around 9 a.m., we anticipated an early start to the airport on the 24th, but I received a notification the night before that our flight was delayed by three and a half hours. We resigned ourselves to the fact that we wouldn’t make it to Mexico City as early in the day as we had planned.
Dominique felt like she was coming down with something, displaying symptoms such as body aches and a sore throat. A couple of COVID tests returned negative results, but there was definitely something going around at that time because others reported sore throats too. We stopped at a pharmacy on the way to the airport the next morning and picked up some standard medicine, lozenges, etc.
The flight to Mexico City was with Delta Airlines, and I found it interesting (but, in retrospect, unsurprising) that the flight announcements were conducted bilingually, in Spanish and English. We debated whether one of the male flight attendants had a Brazilian butt lift or if he was just a master of squats!
Day 1
We landed in Mexico City to grey skies, rain, and 15 degrees Celsius. Not the best first impression for me of supposedly sunny Mexico! We later read that this was likely an overspill from Otis, a category 5 hurricane that was causing havoc in Acapulco, further south.
The immigration process went smoothly, and we got our suitcases and headed for the taxi stand. I had been to East Los Angeles a few times previously, so I was well used to experiencing Spanish as the predominant language on signs and in daily conversation. Walking through the airport, however, I was very aware that I was now in a foreign country and that the language being spoken was not my language.
We lined up at one of the official taxi ranks outside the main door, but were approached several times by other independents who skulked around for fares. They had official-looking IDs, but I’m not quite sure what the distinction was. One of them quoted us a fee of 900 pesos to get to our accommodation, but we politely declined. We ended up paying half that price.
The drive into the city was quite chaotic. It was around 6:30 p.m., and the traffic was crazy! Although there are lines on the road and rules as in the U.S., it seemed at times to be a general free for all. There were people walking up and down the bumper-to-bumper traffic, selling anything and everything; there were even some enterprising folk who would stop traffic in one lane in order to help someone in a different lane make the transition across, for a fee, of course! Some areas we drove through seemed to be very poor, with tents and makeshift shelters pitched on the footpath. We arrived at our accommodation around 7:30 p.m., and our driver helped us with our bags. He seemed somewhat taken aback by our offer of a tip, and we were paranoid that we may not have offered enough. Subsequent research online indicated that they don’t usually expect a tip but do appreciate it nonetheless. For our whole trip, we usually stuck to the 15-20% range whenever tips were called for since that’s what we did in the U.S. and the exchange rate was very much in our favour anyway.
Our accommodation was a one bedroom apartment located near the Condesa neighbourhood that we had booked through AirBnB for ten nights. Our host, Cecilia, was very communicative, and there were clear, concise instructions to get into the building and the apartment. It was a really beautiful apartment, decorated tastefully and brimming with plants of all sizes.
We had dinner at the Japanese restaurant, Daikoku, that night. Yes, I know, it was our first night in Mexico City, and we had Japanese of all things! Dominique thought some soup would help her convalesce, and, well, I’ll never turn up the chance to have sushi!
Dominique, despite what she may say, speaks and understands Spanish pretty well—enough to converse anyway—and I had been learning Spanish on Duolingo for a few years. We tried to practise with the locals when we could. However, for me, understanding the other person’s reply was the harder thing to nail down. It’s hard to pick out the words when people speak so fast! Thankfully, the waiter was very patient and had some English himself.
We got an early night that night to be fresh for the morning’s plans. A nightly recurrence around 10:00 p.m. was the taco vendor on a bike announcing his wares over loudspeaker! The sounds of the still-busy streets wafted in through the open balcony doors well past 11:00 p.m. With that being said, it never really disturbed our sleep.
Day 2
Day two began with a hunt for a pharmacy and some additional relief for Dominique. She reported that her throat was increasingly sore and her sleep was disrupted by coughing fits (she averaged about 4 or 5 hours of sleep over the next week). Since this is more of a travel report and not a medical journal, I don’t really want to keep repeating the gritty details of Dominique’s ordeal, but I will segue here to give a brief overview of our experience with the Mexican health service.
We had purchased travel insurance from SafetyWing before we left the U.S. so that we were covered in the event of anything serious. Since we didn’t really want to head to a hospital just yet, we went looking for pharmacies. No one would really prescribe anything potent enough without a doctor’s prescription; this wasn’t the free-for-all prescription drug paradise that you read stories about in the papers. However, one helpful pharmacist explained that there are other pharmacies in the city that have a fully qualified medical professional on-site. With his direction, we found one nearby, and Dominique had a consultation with the doctor there. When she came out, she explained that the doctor made sure beforehand that she was okay with the consultation fee—a whopping 50 pesos, or about $3! Over the course of the next few days, Dominique was able to communicate and follow up with her directly via WhatsApp for further advice. It was all a very pleasant experience, except for Dominique having to soldier on with the trip while she got better! She was a real trooper, though, having to endure long days on bus tours where the dry, conditioned air irritated her cough even more.
The specific area, Hipódromo, where we stayed, was very beautiful. Hip coffee shops and restaurants were plentiful, and the streets were lined with trees, plants, and greenery of all kinds. The architecture of even the simple houses in Mexico City was wonderful, and there was always some little design element of a building—a curved door or window, the tiling, cornicing, and carvings, or the spectacular colour—that caught the eye.
With no real itinerary planned for that day, we headed in the direction of Bosque de Chapultepec, one of the largest municipal parks in Mexico City. Along the way, we passed through the much smaller Parque México, which seemed to have more than its fair share of dog walkers. Some had 10–15 dogs in tow, and I’m always amazed at how they do it: keep that many dogs under control and navigate narrow city pavements populated by fellow pedestrians. Another thing that we noticed for the first time at this park, and more so as we explored the city, is that if you want somewhere to go "make-out" with your partner, the park is the place to be!
Bosque de Chapultepec is full of exotic trees and feels like a jungle oasis when compared to the hectic and noisy city streets. There were so many stalls along one of the avenues selling all kinds of snacks, toys, and souvenirs. In the grassy areas, I noticed what looked like blackbirds but with dazzling blue wings. Subsequent research indicates that they were likely Yucatan jays.
We headed up to the Castillo de Chapultepec, which sits on a prominent hill overlooking the park and the city. Admission was 95 pesos per person, which was great value. The castle has had many uses over its lifetime, but it is now part of the National History Museum and home to artwork of various kinds. [Image 1]
There were some absolutely amazing paintings and murals on the walls here. I was really impressed and had plenty of research to do afterwards. This is probably a good place to note that in many of the museums we visited in Mexico City, we noticed that not everything is annotated in English. Of course, Spanish is the main language here, but the museums didn’t seem to cater to tourists by having exhibits bilingually. It just didn’t seem common. There may have been handheld audio tours available, but I didn’t notice them anywhere. So I took some pictures of my favourite things and researched them myself later. It kind of suited our travel plans anyway, since we didn’t want to spend whole days inside museums. I’m the kind of person who tends to get engrossed in a museum and will read absolutely everything there is to read about all of the exhibits! [Image 2] [Image 3] [Image 4] [Image 5] [Image 6] [Image 7]
After exploring the interior, we ventured out into the castle gardens, which were really well-kept and beautiful. Because the castle sits on top of a hill, there are spectacular views over the rest of the Bosque de Chapultepec and the city. As we headed for the exit, we were treated to an exhibition drill by the Heroico Colegio Militar, the main military educational institution in Mexico, which was celebrating its bicentennial in 2023. Overall, I came away from our experience at the museum with the intention of spending some more time getting familiar with Mexican history, especially the European influence and conflicts. [Image 8]
Day 3
Prior to starting our trip, I had researched and booked all of our tours in advance using the Viator website. I did this mainly so we wouldn’t have to risk any of the dodgy tours that one might read about in typical travel scare stories. As Viator is owned by Tripadvisor, we knew the tours listed on it would be well-vetted, and we could also judge our choices based on the reviews. Our first tour was booked for our third day—a tour of Xochimilco, Coyoacán, and the Frida Kahlo Museum.
The Viator mobile app itself was handy for keeping track of our tickets and bookings, but for the overall tour information, we found that there were sometimes inconsistencies or variations in pickup times and locations listed. For this tour specifically, two pickup times were listed, but which time for which location wasn’t really clear. We took a chance and headed for a 7:50 a.m. pickup at Miga Cafe, and we lucked out! On our walk up to the cafe from our apartment, we noticed that the streets were eerily devoid of the noise and chaos that usually accompanied the nighttime rush hour traffic. There were barely any cars at all, in fact. It made us wonder what time Mexico City’s citizens started work.
Most of the people for the tour seemed to get on at the first pickup location, with a small handful of people getting on at the city centre location. So if you want your choice of seats, get to the earlier pickup! We were able to grab a quick beverage and snack from the cafe before the tour group assembled. In the queue, we met a mother and daughter from the U.S. who were supposed to go to a wedding in Cancun, but those plans were abandoned after the hurricane.
The first stop on the bus was to Plateria Rafael, an artisan silver factory full of beautiful jewellery and crafts for purchase. The owner, Rafael Córdova, treated us all to a display of his craft, and we were informed that he was commissioned to make the jewellery for the films "Romeo and Juliet" and "Titanic." We were then set loose to peruse the wares of his eclectic store, grab a complimentary coffee, or, for the brave, tequila. Having just turned 9 a.m., we opted for tequila, of course! While waiting for our tour group to finish their shopping and assemble outside the store, I bought some pork tamales from an opportunistic vendor across the street. Dominique got a champurrado, a sort of Mexican hot chocolate. Everything was delicious!
After that, it was back on the bus to head to our first major stop, the canals of Xochimilco. When we arrived, our tour guides led us to a small shop for an opportunity to use "banos limpios" (clean bathrooms), as the sign outside suggested, for the nominal fee of 5 pesos. Here’s where those of a more fragile disposition may wish to skip ahead to the next paragraph. As we were informed, the indoor plumbing systems in Mexico can be substandard in some places, so there are situations where used toilet paper is thrown into the wastebasket instead of flushed down the toilet. Therefore, you may wish to be a bit picky about where you avail of the facilities.
We headed down to the canal, and our tour group was split up into multiple gondola-like boats, called "trajineras." The boats are large, with inward-facing benches running down along the sides and a table in the middle. They are fantastically painted in a variety of bright colours. A bucket of ice-cold beer was loaded onto our boat, and then we were off!
We were averse to the idea of carrying lots of cash anywhere in Mexico City, but in all honesty, it’s sometimes needed since card payment or ATM facilities can be harder to come by. We wish we would have been better prepared for Xochimilco since it seemed like everything was for sale, including the afore-mentioned cold beer. The passenger boats traversed up and down the canals, and smaller boats full of vendors selling snacks, crafts, and flowers approached them. Some of the larger boats tied up together at one point, and a whole mariachi band made their way over, hoping to ply their craft for a few hundred pesos a song. They were great, and they played my favourite Mexican song, "Cielito Lindo." [Image 9] [Image 10] [Image 11] [Video 1]
A smaller group of friends within our tour group had bought a bottle of tequila and plastic glasses at the shop before we embarked and proceeded to make their boat the party boat. Suddenly, I didn’t feel so bad about my 9 a.m. shot of tequila. The noise, the colour, and the occasional gentle nudging of boats off one another made the whole experience very memorable. A stray dog made its way back to the dock by walking from boat to boat as they slipped by one another.
With the tour group reassembled, we headed to Frederi's Marisquería for lunch. The tequila group had polished off their whole bottle at this point and continued the party here. On the way, I noticed an interesting security feature on some of the properties in the area. Whereas most would be accustomed to barbed or razor wire running along the top of walls, here, glass shards were placed standing up in the cement prior to its hardening.
Food options at the restaurant were either a flat fee for the buffet or choosing à la carte from the regular menu. Most folks opted for the buffet. The food was fine, but not amazing. A few people chose from the menu, but the food took so long that we were nearly back on the bus before their plates came out.
Our next stop was the Museo Frida Kahlo, located in "Casa Azul," the house where the artist, Frida Kahlo, spent most of her life. It’s a very beautiful house, and the walled courtyard and gardens gave us serious house envy. We were only given about 45 minutes here (not sure if this was a time limit imposed by the museum or the tour), but with the crowds, there just wasn’t very much time to really look at everything on display in the cramped interior. We made a quick pass through all of the rooms and spent most of our time outside in the garden. Before entering the museum, you need to pay a licence fee in order to be able to take any photos. I cannot recall how much it was—maybe 20 pesos per person. [Image 12] [Image 13] [Image 14] [Image 15]
After, we walked with our tour guide to the nearby Centro de Coyoacán. Coyoacán is a very beautiful borough of Mexico City, and it was probably our favourite area in all of the places we explored in the city. There was just so much atmosphere and such beautiful traditional Mexican buildings and parks. One thing that was really nice in Mexico City, and something we stumbled upon time and time again, are the plazas—little public squares that are a hub of activity and great for people watching. The plaza in Centro de Coyoacán is wonderful; I really loved the fountain with the coyotes. Coyoacán is thought to mean "place of coyotes" in an old Aztec language, and they really lean into the theme here. We were determined to revisit Coyoacán later in the trip ourselves, so I’ll touch back on that again.
Our last stop was Ciudad Universitaria, the main campus of UNAM (National Autonomous University of Mexico), a portion of which is a UNESCO world heritage site. We were given an overview of some of the murals here, which were created by some famous artists such as Juan O’Gorman (a good, strong Irish name!). His mural on the central library is recognised as the largest in the world, and it was really spectacular. Our tour guide was able to dissect all of the symbolism and imagery for us, so we left with a much greater appreciation for the artwork. [Image 16]
The bus dropped us back off at Miga Cafe, and we walked home, grabbing some takeout at the Mexican restaurant below our apartment. It was quite a long day, and as my notes remind me, "torta y cerveza y cama" (torta and beer and bed) was all I was able to manage.
Day 4
We took the opportunity to have a slow morning the next day, as we didn’t have anything scheduled until later that night. We had some coffee and caught up on laundry. I had packed some shorts and lighter clothing, assuming the weather on our trip would be pretty hot. Argentina, being in the southern hemisphere, would be in its summer. Apart from the first few days in Mexico, I had assumed correctly. Walking around our neighbourhood, however, I didn’t notice many folks in shorts or anything reassembling summer attire at all. It made me feel slightly self-conscious, particularly as I had read in one travel blog that wearing the typical tourist garb of shorts and sandals is frowned upon in Mexico City. I let my anxiety get the better of me, and we headed to Sears to grab a pair of light, breathable trousers for me to wear as an alternative to jeans.
After we made our purchase and left the store, we both discussed how it was quite a weird shopping experience. The staff didn’t really seem as eager to approach and offer help or advice as one would normally expect (we thought that maybe they sensed we were tourists and none felt comfortable enough with their level of English). A sales assistant did help me find a size that I needed when we asked, but when walking away, trousers underarm, to continue browsing the rest of the store, she came running after us and explained in broken English that she would hold onto the pair for me while we continued shopping. Confused, we surrendered the trousers and happened to find another pair more suitable anyway. We sort of chalked this experience up to either problems with shoplifting or, in a more likely scenario, a way for her to ensure her sales commission.
On the way back to our apartment from the store, we stopped at a bank. I had ordered Mexican pesos in cash before we left the U.S. but was provided with notes in large denominations like 500s and 1000s. Most street vendors can’t really make change for those amounts and tend to work in smaller notes like 20s, 50s, and 100s. Wanting to practise my English, I led the conversation and managed to be successful in achieving our goal. Afterwards, I replayed the transaction in my head and realised that, having focused too much on piecing together sentences in Spanish, I had forgotten to throw in a "por favor" (please) and a "gracias" (thank you). This probably explained the cashier’s demeanour as I left, and I kicked myself for that personal oversight for the next few hours. Being literal-minded can sometimes get me into trouble!
Our next excursion was to a Lucha Libre night, which promised to be a fun night with beers, tacos, mezcal, and Mexican wrestling. We were scheduled to meet our tour guides at Cru Cru Brew, a craft brewery in the Roma Norte neighbourhood. It was a Friday, 7 p.m., and the traffic was insane, so we wisely decided to walk. The bars and restaurants on the way were noticeably busier, and there seemed to be many more English-speaking tourists around.
Our tour guides were friendly and had great English. They introduced us to everyone who had arrived before us: a group of Americans who explained that they had come for the Formula One grand prix that was being hosted in the city that weekend. That explained a few things! Most of the rest of the tour group that showed up were also from the U.S. Our guides kept us well watered with pitchers of different types of craft beer, and a large bottle of mezcal (or two!) was slowly depleted while we all got more acquainted and talked about our Mexico City experiences. My curiosity got the better of me, and I asked one of our guides about my earlier observation about summer clothing. It's best to get the insight of a local! They explained that Mexicans are well used to the heat, and wearing shorts or summer clothing is more common in rural areas or in beach towns. She also remarked that some neighbourhoods of Mexico City, including where we were staying, can be quite bougie, so people dress more fashionably and look down on more casual wear.
After finishing off our libations, we took a short walk to a small plaza nearby, where we got a run-through of what we could expect for the night ahead. There were a couple of borrachos (drunks) enjoying the night on a bench, and they kept interrupting the tour guides' speeches. It was quite funny. The guides walked us through the history of Lucha Libre, what we could expect once we got to the stadium, the atmosphere, the dos and don’ts, and an overview of the rules and teams. Luchadores (wrestlers) are categorised into two teams. The "técnicos" are the good guys who generally play by the rules, and their moves are much more complex and impressive. The "rudos" are the bad guys, brawler-types, and tend to break the rules. Fights are somewhat fixed on the night as the referee tunes into the atmosphere of the crowd and decides which team wins by who is being shouted for most passionately. We all got handed our souvenir for the night: a bona fide Luchador mask. Wearing it after the group photo was taken was entirely optional!
Our next stop was a street taco stand a short walk away for some pre-match soakage! These stands were very common all over the city, but it was nice to have a local recommendation on one to go to. Our guides did all of the ordering on our behalf, and everything tasted fantastic. Al pastor, carne asada, lengua (beef tongue), pollo (chicken), everything was on offer here, including brains! I can say that I was adventurous enough to try the brains, but it wouldn’t be something I’d order again. It was quite gelatinous and lacked any depth of flavour. [Image 17]
We had one final stop for a talk about what was going to happen at the stadium regarding the tickets and where we would be seated. Our tour guides humorously explained that foul language is regularly heard as people root for their team and admonish the referee for poor decisions. They even offered us some choice phrases that we could use if we were feeling confident enough! With that, we headed to Arena Mexico, located in the Colonia Doctores neighbourhood. The area was a sea of people partying and drinking outside bars, a lot of them wearing Formula One team regalia. After a brief frisking by security at the door, we were led to the upper level and to our seats. Much like the undercard flights at a boxing match, there had already been multiple fights before we arrived (the event can last upwards of three hours), but the tour was purposefully timed to ensure we didn’t miss the main event. We got one generously sized beer included with the tour, and more were available for purchase at the arena concessions or from a wandering vendor for about 120 pesos.
When we arrived, there was a three-on-three tag team match already underway. I had watched some American W.W.E. wrestling on TV when I was younger and was well accustomed to the showmanship on display, but seeing it in person was something entirely different. Masked (and sometimes caped) heroes with names like "Mistico" and "Virus" whipped the crowd into a frenzy. These guys were large (sometimes more on what I would politely call the "husky" physique) but would run, jump, and fly through the air like acrobats. The atmosphere was unreal—such noise and cheering and shouting, the likes of which I have never experienced at a live sporting event. The crowd was very passionate, and boos, jeers, and howls of approval followed every move by the luchadores. It was absolutely hilarious to hear our tour guides foul-mouthed tirades (en español, por supuesto!) at the opposing team or at the referee. In some matches, we were told, luchadores risked having their mask removed should they lose (the ultimate shame!), so it seemed like everything was at stake. [Image 18] [Image 19] [Video 2]
Some more traditional one-on-one matches followed, but the main event of the evening was an eight-on-eight female competition between a selection of Mexican wrestlers and a team composed of "rest of the world" wrestlers. The ladies were introduced on stage one by one, before a lone bugler announced the arrival of the marching band from the same military college we saw at the Castillo de Chapultepec. It was quite the scene! [Video 3]
The female fighters were just as flamboyant and skilled as the men, and some of the moves on display were spectacularly impressive. The funniest scenes were when one member of a given team’s fighters was thrown out of the ring into the crowd of standby fighters from the opposing team, who would then proceed to beat them up. Once the unfortunate victim’s team found out what was happening, they would charge around the ring and "rescue" them by breaking up the melee. This charade was passed back and forth a few times. As the fighters were slowly whittled down, the home team was declared victorious. What a shameless fix, haha!
It was quite late at this stage, so Dominique and I cut out a little early, saying goodbye to our amazing, fun guides and leaving a tip. We came to notice on many of the tours we took throughout our trip that a lot of people would leave nothing for the tour guides as they said their goodbyes. Yes, some of the tours were expensive, but the bus tours especially could be long, long days, and we subsequently found out that guides could end up working 5–6 tours a week to make ends meet. So yeah, tip your tour guide! We usually gave anywhere from a few hundred to a few thousand pesos each, depending on the tour and whether there was a driver.
Day 5
On Saturday, we decided to walk from our apartment into Centro, which is the historic centre of Mexico City, and just get a feel for the downtown area and the atmosphere there. We started off at the Angel of Independence and trekked inward along Paseo de la Reforma, one of the main avenues that cuts across Mexico City. The avenue was dotted on both sides with beautifully decorated La Catrina and Calavera statues. There were huge crowds everywhere, likely because the build-up for Día de los Muertos had already begun and also because of the Formula One race. [Image 20] [Image 21]
We walked through the Festival de Flores de Cempasúchil, an event dedicated to the Marigold flower, traditionally associated with Día de los Muertos, and highly incorporated into ofrendas (altars) and decorations during this time. There were so many marigolds for sale here, along with other plants such as ferns, succulents, bonsai, and a variety of cacti. Oh, if only I had the room in my suitcase! [Image 22] [Image 23]
We gradually made our way from here over to the Plaza de la República to see the magnificent Monumento a la Revolución, a towering arch with inspiring carvings on all sides. It’s possible to go to the top, and although we wanted to come back to do just that, we never got around to it. There was one of those square fountains in the plaza that shoots water up intermittently from a matrix of individual fountainheads on the ground. Some kids were dancing through the jets, having the time of their lives, and cooling off from the very hot weather that day.
There was a rooftop bar called Terraza Cha Cha Chá at the top of one of the buildings surrounding the plaza, which we thought would offer us a great view of the monument, but when we inquired, there were no outdoor seats available. Apparently, people book tables there well in advance to watch the Day of the Dead parade from above. We decided instead to have lunch and some drinks at La Soldadera, which was a different establishment at the bottom of the same building. The food and service were excellent, and the cocktails were much needed after walking in the baking sun. This was the Mexican weather I was expecting! [Image 24]
Continuing our way to Centro, we spotted a large crowd just past where we were supposed to split off from Paseo de la Reforma to head down Avenue Juarez. We headed off our path to investigate and found a small impromptu performance by dancers and musicians dressed in Aztec outfits and extravagant feather headdresses. They had an altar laid out with offerings and flowers, and it was interesting to also see a bust of Jesus Christ on the table. A real example of the meeting of the old and the new worlds. [Image 25] [Video 4]
Heading back down to Avenue Juarez, we walked along the edge of Mexico City’s oldest public park, Alameda Central. Everywhere you went in the more crowded areas of the city, vendors had their wares on display on rugs or sheets on the ground, and there were buskers, or performers, holding a captive audience. There was just a great buzz and energy all around. We stopped to take pictures of the Palacio de Bellas Artes. It’s a very beautiful building, ornate and highly detailed. We never ended up going inside, even though it was on our to-do list. Because of the time of year that we went to Mexico City, there tended to be huge crowds at some of the more popular attractions. The idea of jostling for mere glimpses of exhibits put us off a few times.
From there, we walked over the fully pedestrianised Francisco I. Madero Avenue, heading towards the Zócalo, which is the main square in the centre of Mexico City. Madero Street was absolutely teeming with people, as this seemed to be one of the main shopping areas, populated with high-end retail stores. The historic buildings along here were gorgeous, and the fact that some of them were occupied by high-end retail stores didn’t really sit well with me. That being said, they were adorned with marigolds and other Day of the Dead decorations that added to the atmosphere. [Image 26] [Image 27] [Image 28]
At its eastern end, the avenue opened up into the Zócalo, and we took some pictures of the outside of the Catedral Metropolitana (we visited the interior of this cathedral on another day) and the Palacio Nacional, the national residence of the Mexican president. Nice digs! The Zócalo is expansive and can hold well over 100,000 people. Paul McCartney apparently drew a crowd of 250,000 when he played a free concert there in 2012. What a bunch of cheapskates! [Image 29]
On the southwestern corner of the plaza is the Gran Hotel Ciudad de México. I had seen pictures of its magnificent lobby on the internet while researching our trip, so we made a point of calling in to see it for ourselves. The most colourful and bright Tiffany stained-glass ceiling allows the sunlight to illuminate the lobby below. A caged, antique elevator seems to transport those lucky enough to stay here back in time to the turn of the 20th century. If we ever make it back to Mexico City, we’ll be sure to spend a few nights here, as the prices are fairly reasonable for the luxury on offer. I’ve read that the terrace is the most magical place to have breakfast or grab a drink. [Image 30] [Image 31]
Our walk having reached its zenith, we headed back in the direction of our apartment, passing through Chinatown and the very quaint Plaza de San Juan. We strolled through the nearby Mercado de San Juan (which we happened upon quite by accident) and perused the variety of foods and ingredients on sale here. We grabbed a beer at one of the many micro-restaurants inside. A lone wandering mariachi enticed a few pesos from us with a song. It was indeed a sensory experience!
In the evening, we went for Thai food at Galanga, a very beautiful restaurant with loads of plants and greenery, giving the impression of dining in a glass house. I had an amazing chicken curry. We sampled some of their fantastic cocktails, and I was delighted to find that they stocked a beer called "Cielito Lindo," a smooth-drinking Vienna lager. Up until this point, most wait staff at the places we went had defaulted to speaking solely with Dominique. I get it; she’s a lot more Mexican-looking than me! We talked about it a lot and found it funny, because, on paper, I probably had more Spanish vocabulary than she did. Our waiter here, however, was a nice guy who engaged us both in conversation about our travel plans and patiently waited while we formed the sentences in our heads. I realised that I was a lot more comfortable attempting to converse primarily in Spanish when the other person had at least some level of English that I could fall back on.
Having another long tour day ahead of us, we headed home, grabbing some Indio beers from a store on the way. It was a nice, easy-drinking lager that I had never seen before while living in the U.S. Tecate, Corona, and Modelo were much easier to find stateside. We walked about 14 kilometres in total today!
Day 6
Our last pre-arranged tour on the Mexico City leg was a long one. A visit to Teotihuacan, the Shrine of Our Lady of Guadalupe, and Tlatelolco. We were already familiar with the pickup spot, Miga Cafe, because the tour was run by the same tour company, Amigo Tours, that ran our first tour to Xochimilco, etc. Our tour guides today were Alan (who handled the English-speaking group), Alexa (who handled the Spanish-speaking group), and our driver, Rudolpho.
Our first stop for the day was the area of Tlatelolco. Alan led the English-speaking group from the bus, stopping to explain the various points of interest along the way. We walked by the beautiful convent adjoining the Colegio de Santa Cruz de Tlatelolco, the oldest school of higher learning in the Americas. Alan was an excellent, well-spoken tour guide who gave us a rich history and background on every location we visited that day. He was able to explain the Aztec meaning behind place names or objects, and he really was one of the best guides we had throughout our trip.
We were given some time inside the church that forms part of the college, and we then viewed the Aztec archaeological excavation site out front of the church. These ruins formed part of a city-state called Tlatelolco, which is thought to be over 700 years old. Tlatelolco and the more famous Tenochtitlan, located in the Centro Historico, are believed to have been coexisting city-states that together formed the island that eventually developed into Mexico City. The history of Mexico City is really fascinating, especially when you learn that it used to be located in the middle of a lake with canals and waterways, not unlike modern-day Venice. Modern Xochimilco is apparently a remnant of this system of waterways and gives a good approximation of life back then.
Alan brought us over to the Plaza de las Tres Culturas and explained to us the Tlatelolco massacre of 1968, when the Mexican military opened fire on unarmed demonstrators assembled in the plaza for a peaceful protest. Snipers fired down into the crowd from the apartment buildings overlooking the plaza. This happened ten days before the opening ceremony of the Mexico City Olympic Games. Bullet holes can still be seen in the brickwork of the old church. A memorial now stands on the plaza to honour those who were killed.
It was time to pile back onto the bus for the drive out of the city boundaries to Teotihuacan, the vast ancient city containing the famous Pyramid of the Sun and Pyramid of the Moon. After leaving the city boundary, there was a marked difference in the look of the residential buildings. Alan mentioned that there was much more poverty out here, and it showed. Structures were built practically on top of one another with little in the way of green space, or space of any kind, in fact. Although they were made of concrete, they looked like quite rudimentary structures. A door from here, a window from there. An interesting transportation project, the Mexicable, towers over the houses and carries commuters right over the hills and valleys below.
As we started to approach the Teotihuacan site, the mighty Pyramid of the Moon came into view and was simply awe-inspiring. The scale was just unbelievable, and the pyramid easily dwarfed everything else in view. We parked up first at the Artesanías El Quetzal store for a tequila tasting, a few demonstrations, and a look around.
I’ll sojourn here to talk about something you are likely to encounter a lot in Mexico, especially on organised tours. There is no doubt that there is a lot of poverty in Mexico, and a lot of people depend on foreign tourist money to make a living. Everywhere you go, you will have vendors attempting to sell you souvenirs, snacks, or handmade crafts. You’ll get used to saying "no, thank you" to multiple people who’ll approach you, even when sitting outside a restaurant in the city for a meal. They’re not overly pushy, and we never once felt unsafe, but it’s a fact of life here as people are just trying to make ends meet. You’ll often see a woman or man carting around their whole shop in a trolley, kids in tow, and spending hours out in the sun to make a wage. It can be quite heartbreaking. Some of the tour groups obviously have ties to the shops that they stop by on their itineraries, or there are likely kick-backs involved. Witnessing all of this on our first tour to Xochilmilco, I couldn’t quite shake the feeling that we were "marks," but as time went on, I more fully understood that people here are really dependent on that income. The sales tactics did, however, eat into our tour time, and sometimes certain parts of the tour felt quite rushed. If you want to avoid all of that, it might be best to hire a driver from a reputable company and just go directly to all of the places you want to see. It might work out cheaper, too!
At the artisan store, our guides handed us off to a lady from the store who talked us through the many uses of the agave plant. She proceeded to pull off a leaf from a nearby plant and, tearing the fibres, showed us how the ancient people used to make thread and paper. The sharp tips of the leaves were used to make sewing needles. Nearly every part of the plant can be used for something, the most famous being tequila and mezcal. The plants themselves are quite large, much bigger than I had expected. [Image 32]
We were then formed into a circle, and the store employees gave us about 5–6 different samples of various brands of tequila, mezcal, and pulque, a milky liquid made from the sap of the agave plant. It’s not a bad sales strategy, I’ll admit! We also got a demonstration of obsidian, a volcanic glass that is found in abundance in the area and was one of the supposed reasons for the growth of Teotihuacan in ancient times. A neat trick involved using the glass to safely stare at the sun, which was handy for viewing solar eclipses, we were told. The glass comes in various beautiful colours, and the artisans carve into all sorts of figurines and ornaments. We were given about fifteen minutes to peruse the store on our own. Dominique bought a beautiful dress, and I bought a fine-looking shirt, both crafted from agave fibres. We also indulged in a bottle of Mayorazgo reposado tequila, our favourite choice from the earlier samples.
The bus then took us over to the official parking area for the pyramids, and Alan led us over to the archaeological site, which covers 83 square kilometres in total. The history of the site is very interesting, and again, Alan was on top of his game, bringing us through the various historical periods of the area and the rise and fall of the civilization located here. He walked us through the living quarters of the citizens and pointed out various murals and artwork on the walls of the buildings. A book he carried with him contained artist impressions of what the city looked like in its prime, with most of the colours and elaborate murals having been lost to time. The murals that remained were very beautiful, and the colours were so vibrant. An interesting thing that Alan pointed out was how to distinguish which structural elements on these types of ruins were original and which were reconstructions. Little pebbles are placed all along the mortar between the larger bricks or stones on the new additions. So, we were easily able to get a sense of whether what we were looking at was authentic. [Image 33] [Image 34]
We were brought into the plaza in front of the Pyramid of the Moon. Although it was busy, I think we got there at a pretty decent time, because the crowds got denser as the day went on. It was a Sunday, and it seemed like even local families visited the ruins on their day off. There were quite a lot of vendors selling various items here, but one thing in particular became the soundtrack to our time around the ruins. A ceramic whistle, when blown into with the right amount of skill, produced the sound of a panther’s snarl. I must say, it was very convincing! On more than one occasion, we were startled when a kid in the crowd managed to get the whistle to produce the shrill, menacing sound.
The pyramids are very impressive, with the Pyramid of the Sun being larger than the Pyramid of the Moon. We were told that since COVID, people have not been allowed to climb to the top of either pyramid, and that rule was still in effect when we visited, which was a shame. Nevertheless, we still got a good sense of the sheer size and volume of the structures from the ground. We were given about an hour of free time to wander down the Avenue of the Dead, the central thoroughfare that connects the whole city and links both pyramids. The sun was very hot that day, and there was little shade out in the open, so carrying some water is well advised. [Image 35]
We all trickled back to the bus when we had seen enough, and it was now time for lunch. The bus brought us back to the same complex that housed the artisanal shop from earlier, but this time we were led into the restaurant, Tlacaelel, which was in a separate building at the front. The format here was quite similar to our other tour: choose from the buffet or order à la carte from the restaurant’s regular menu. We decided to order from the menu this time since we had a little more time for lunch here. We had a few beers, some tequila over ice, and I ordered barbacoa tacos. I wasn’t really impressed with the dish that I was presented with; the beef was dry and somewhat flavourless. It would come back to haunt me! There was some cringy entertainment in the form of a duo who sang along to some songs, karaoke style. Some other girls in traditional dresses gave a much more entertaining dance performance. The captive audience was solicited for tips. The restaurant itself was pretty cool. A high roof, made of palm fronds or straw, was open on both gables to let cool air waft in from outside. There were some pretty Día de los Muertos decorations in the foyer at the front. As I boarded the bus again to head to our next port of call, I noticed an interesting feature in the garden next door. Tall cacti planted in close proximity created a makeshift fence around a small lawn. [Image 36] [Image 37]
Our next stop, the Basilica of Our Lady of Guadalupe, required us to return to Mexico City. Despite being brought up Catholic, I’m not really religious at all, but I can always appreciate the craftsmanship that goes into the building of great cathedrals or churches. Our bus pulled up across the street from the religious complex of Tepeyac, and we were first shepherded to a local souvenir shop for an opportunity to peruse religious merchandise. Alan also gave us a talk about the history of the apparition of Mary that led to the basilica’s founding. We walked through the new basilica, where a mass was currently in session, to view the relics from the apparition. After, the group exited out into the main plaza, Atrio de las Américas, and Alan talked us through the history of the site as we strolled past the old churches that have been built here over hundreds of years. Pope John Paul II visited here five times, and there is a giant statue in his honour. I wondered if they brought him to the souvenir store. Be sure to look out for the evidently sinking Convent of Las Capuchinas.
This is where the time we had overspent at other places earlier in the day really came back to bite us. This portion of the tour felt a little rushed, and we didn’t have time to climb to the top of the hill of Tepeyac, where the Capilla del Cerrito is located. The view of the city is supposed to be very nice from up there, but they were closing the gate at the bottom of the steps when we arrived. We almost missed out on seeing another area of the complex too, but Alan pleaded with the security guard to let our group through. Here, statues depict the apparition of Mary and her Aztec devotees at the foot of a rocky outcrop. It’s very pretty in that area, with fountains, fresh green grass, and many beds of roses. There is much to be said for the symbolism here. Similarly to Ireland, the Catholic Church adopted pagan or pre-Christian traditions to help spread their message. The Hill of Tepeyac had originally been a place to worship an Aztec earth goddess. [Image 38]
We went back to the new basilica for a final look before making our way back to the bus. Dominique and I had noticed people walking around the city carrying religious statues on a few occasions before the tour. At the basilica, we noticed more people doing so. Alan informed us that people tend to bring their statues of Mary, Jesus, or whomever to get blessed at a church around this time. The religious site takes up an awful lot of real estate. Everything is very beautifully ornate, and a great deal of money has obviously gone into the building of the complex. Looking at the neighbourhood that surrounds it all, you get a sense of its poverty and that it's somewhat rough around the edges. I’ve never been able to reconcile the wealth of organised religion with the poverty of its most devoted followers.
As we boarded the bus, I started to feel quite unwell. I’m probably the first person in history to come out of the basilica feeling worse than when they went in! The bus headed back to Miga Cafe for the drop-off, and we were asked to fill out a survey on our phones for the tour guides. Some people were very unhappy about being rushed around the basilica and voiced their displeasure openly. Driving back into the city, I happened to notice a heavier police presence than usual. We later learned that there were some student protests happening across the city. On the walk home, we passed by a car pile-up, and a poor motorcyclist had borne the brunt of the wreckage. Stopping at a store to pick up some supplies, we laughed at and subsequently purchased some "leche de burra" shower gel. Looking past our concerns about the implied ingredients and the cheery donkey on the bottle, it was actually quite a good shower gel.
Day 7
The less said about today, the better! Those barbacoa tacos, man! I may need to write a Yelp! review.
Day 8
Being an avid follower of all things history, I had previously learned about the Batallón de San Patricio, who are greatly revered heroes in Mexico. Prior research informed me that there was a plaque in their honour in San Jacinto Plaza. Feeling in much better shape today, we were able to head outdoors once more. We took an Uber to the plaza, which is located in the San Ángel district of Mexico City. Uber rides were very cheap here in Mexico, and we could have taken them all of the time, but we mostly preferred to walk where we needed to go.
As we got closer to San Jacinto Plaza, the car took us through narrow, cobblestone streets past the most beautiful Spanish-style houses. We arrived at the plaza and began our hunt for the plaque (which is noted on Google Maps as "Placa Batallon de San Patricio"). At the western end of the plaza, a bust of John Riley, the founder and leader of the battalion, watches over a commemorative plaque mounted on a building across the street. The plaque lists the names of those members of the battalion who were executed for their swap of allegiance during the Mexican-American War of 1846–1848. The bust itself had decorations, marigolds, and offerings laid out before it. It was really nice, as an Irishman, to see that this level of admiration and respect still lives on to this very day. [Image 39] [Image 40]
There’s a little art gallery, Tocamadera, in the building housing the plaque, and we were drawn in by the sight of an elaborate ofrenda in the open courtyard, accessible through an arched entrance. Marigolds and candles lined the walkway, and there were a few figurines in memory of some notable artists. Heading through San Jacinto Plaza itself, the surroundings were idyllic, and we studied some of the beautiful buildings and houses that bordered the square. [Image 41] [Image 42] [Image 43]
A second visit to Coyoacán, about a 45-minute walk away, was also on the agenda for today. We passed by the Parque de la Bombilla and took some pictures of the Monumento a Álvaro Obregón. Walking along Avenue Francisco Sosa, we saw so many examples of beautiful traditional houses. Large, wooden, ornate double doors lead right off the pavement into architectural heaven. We really love the Spanish/Mexican style of high-walled compounds, with lush, green landscaping, open-air courtyards, exposed wooden beams, and bright, colourful Talavera tiles. [Image 44] [Image 45]
We stopped at Parque Santa Catarina to admire the bright, yellow-coloured Capilla de Santa Catarina de Siena. Two restaurants here, "Merendero Las Lupitas" and "Mesón Antigua," looked very inviting, but we had already committed to getting food and drinks in Centro de Coyoacán, which was a short walk away. [Image 46]
Since our second visit to this area was not on a guided tour, we were able to leisurely stroll around the square and really admire this beautiful, historic neighbourhood. The "Letras Coyoacán" sign offers a great photo opportunity if you can manage to strike a pose without people getting in your shot. A lot of tourist destinations in Mexico will have these signs spelling out their names, which are composed of large, colourful letters. Coyoacán made such an impression on me that I considered getting my first tattoo; the Coyote logo that makes up the second "O" in the Coyoacán sign. However, I talked myself out of it - a lame excuse, but I didn’t want to spend the rest of our trip caring for a fresh tattoo. [Image 47]
There are many bars and restaurants dotted around Jardín Centenario and Jardín Hidalgo, the parks that make up the plaza, and some of them were covered in gorgeous floral displays and decorations. [Image 48] [Image 49]
From our many options here, we decided on La Calaca for some beers, tequilas, and appetisers. It had a wonderful, naturally lit courtyard with several large trees growing up out of the ground. A detailed, ceramic mural adorned the back wall of the bar. Skeleton figurines swung from the overhead lighting cords, Miley Cyrus style, and clambered up the tree trunks. This restaurant was really charming, and there was so much to look at. [Image 50]
Outside Casa de Hernán Cortés, there was a wonderful ofrenda commemorating dead football players, both local and international. I noticed that their ode to the Argentinian soccer player, Maradona, was very true to life! [Image 51] [Image 52]
During the Día de los Muertos celebrations, Mexicans visit the graves of their friends and relatives to tend to their upkeep and leave offerings and remembrances. On November 1st and 2nd, the cemeteries are laden with flowers, decorations, and people celebrating the lives of their deceased loved ones. Several cemeteries in the city are renowned for being especially vibrant with candlelight processions, music, and other events. Visitors are welcome to these events, provided they are respectful, but we decided to visit a cemetery in the daytime as we felt that the nighttime commemorations deserved privacy. We walked to the nearby Panteon de Los Reyes. The cemetery was quite small, but there were some beautiful decorations and an ofrenda here. Headstones on the graves took the form of little glass cabinets. Those visiting the deceased left offerings such as partially smoked cigarettes, snacks, and cans or bottles of beer. You really felt like you got a sense of the person by seeing what their favourite beer or snack was. It was quite thought-provoking to witness this attitude towards life and death. The most touching examples were for the little children who were taken much too soon; stuffed animals, sweets, and little toys adorned their cabinets. [Image 53]
Having paid our respects, we headed back to the Centro de Coyoacán, stopping for a visit to Parque Frida Kahlo along the way. There were many statues to see here, a magnificent fountain, and intricate displays of plants and flowers. A statue of Frida Kahlo and Diego Rivera stood sentinel and provided a nice photo opportunity. The same sculptor who made the Coyote fountain in Centro de Coyoacán mentioned earlier also made the statues in this park.
We finished out the day by getting dinner and drinks at La Coyoacana. The food was great, and the margaritas were even better! A wandering band of mariachis played song requests. A shoe shiner offered his trade but didn’t seem to get many takers. I looked around and wondered if it was because most people these days wear trainers. An official photographer who took our photo returned with a printout in a commemorative wooden picture frame, which we subsequently bought from him. As we waited for our Uber back to our apartment, I spotted a busker in an unconvincing Freddy Krueger outfit playing saxophone on the corner for tips. Spooky! [Image 54]
Day 9
Today, we planned on going to the Museo Nacional de Antropología, the largest museum in Mexico, for a few hours. This museum is home to many significant archaeological artefacts from before the Spanish colonisation and is a must-visit if you are interested in the Aztec and Mayan civilizations. It is located in Bosque de Chapultepec and is divided into 22 sections (upstairs and downstairs), which are dedicated to the peoples of Mesoamerica. The building itself is enormous, and a central plaza has a large pond and a beautiful fountain in the shape of an umbrella that cascades water down from the suspended roof. The ground floor, accessible from the central courtyard, contains the archaeology halls, with additional exhibits in the gardens outside. The upper levels contain the ethnography halls, which are more focused on modern Mexico. [Image 55]
Again, we found that a lot of the exhibits were in Spanish only, and it was somewhat disappointing to not be able to read more about the specific exhibits that I was most drawn to. A tour guide is an option and might help you to be more selective about what you see; the museum is really massive and there is so much to see. The first few rooms explained more about the evolution and migration of man and how humans ended up arriving in Mexico. The dioramas were really well detailed in these rooms, but the information here just provided some background and context for the main exhibits. The various halls of the museum are arranged either according to different geographical regions of Mexico or by civilization. The pottery, sculptures, and murals on display here were just incredible, and it was so interesting to see firsthand a lot of the stuff that I had read about in history books as a kid. [Image 56] [Image 57] [Image 58] [Image 59] [Image 60]
Notable artefacts included the Aztec Sun Stone, a 24-tonne circular carving that dominates the Mexica room, Moctezuma’s headdress, and the Tomb of Pakal. One of the exhibits posed the question of why pyramids seemed to develop in parallel in many different cultures around the world—that one really made me think! [Image 61] [Image 62] [Image 63]
Outside, in the gardens, the museum exhibitors did an excellent job of incorporating trees and landscaping to create an immersive experience where one would believe they had stumbled across a real temple in the jungle for the very first time. [Image 64]
We spent about 3 hours walking around the museum but still only saw about half of the lower halls and a handful of the upper halls. There is a rather nice restaurant called Sala Gastronomica in the museum. The soup that I ordered was delicious, as was the “Zarandeado"-style octopus. Their cocktails were really good, too.
When we left the museum, we heard some music playing and headed over to a small clearing in the trees. Anticipating something transpiring from what we saw when we got there, we decided to take a seat on a short wall and rest our weary legs. There was what seemed to be a flagpole with metal rungs rising from the centre of the clearing. Four thick ropes hung down from a contraption on the top of the pole all the way to the ground. Five or six men dressed in some sort of traditional outfit were milling around and chatting. Then, suddenly, one by one, they all started to climb the pole without the use of any harnesses or safety gear. [Image 65] [Image 66]
When they got to the top, they started to spin the contraption around the pole, and as they did so, the four ropes started to be pulled up. They were being wrapped around the very top of the pole. A fifth man played music on a flute and a drum as all of this was happening. Once the lengths of rope were pulled all the way up, a few minutes went by, and there appeared, to those of us on the ground, to be nothing happening. The suspense and anticipation were building. Without warning, four of the men fell backwards like they were diving off the side of a boat with full scuba gear on. They were hung upside down, a rope tied to each man's waist. As the contraption at the top of the pole spun in the opposite direction, the lengths of rope unfurled from where they had been spooled and gradually lowered the men to the ground. It was a remarkable sight and a great display of bravery. Another man on the ground solicited tips, and boy, were they well-earned! This display is known as the Danza de los Voladores, or Dance of the Flyers. [Image 67] [Image 68]
Later that night, we headed to an Irish bar, Celtics, not far from our apartment. I am always curious about Irish bars in other countries and the experience to be had there. The bar was filled with the usual Irish decor and pictures of Irish writers, celebrities, and revolutionaries. They had nice, big steins of cold Mexican beer, but not much in the way of Irish beers. A flyer on the bar counter advertised a "Peaky Blinders" fancy dress competition for Halloween. The staff were friendly, the beers were good, and they had pool tables. [Image 69]
After, we went for dinner to Ardente, a Neapolitan-style pizzeria, which was a short walk away. They had some very refreshing margaritas, and their Caesar salad, meatballs, and wood-fired pizza were delicious. The restaurants in Mexico City seemed to do a good trade no matter the day of the week, but people probably eat later than we would be used to. On the walk home, a dog running off-lead ran up behind us, scrunching a large plastic bottle in its mouth. Laughing about it afterwards, the noise scared the crap out of us!
Day 10
It was now November 2nd, and the Día de los Muertos celebrations were in full swing. Finding information online about some of the events was difficult, and we only discovered after we arrived in Mexico that the parade will usually take place on a Saturday if Día de los Muertos happens to fall on a weekday. We were lucky since we were due to fly out on November 5th, and the parade this year was on the 4th. Earlier in the week, as we walked around, places were still in the process of being decorated, and ofrendas were still being built. Now, everything was in place, and the preparations were complete.
Walking back up along Paseo de la Reforma, there were some new additions. Large papier-mâché creations in the shape of monsters or mythical beasts lined the pavements, and they were very elaborately and colourfully decorated. [Image 70] [Image 71] [Image 72]
We stopped by a shopping mall to use the restrooms, and there was a beautiful ofrenda dedicated to those in the entertainment industry. [Image 73]
Our next stop was Plaza Garibaldi, which features some beautiful old buildings. Mariachis wander the square, performing traditional Mexican songs for tips. It was very quiet when we got there, probably too early in the day according to the plaza’s reputation. There’s a tequila and mezcal museum on the western end of the square, which was on our initial itinerary, but we decided to skip it after all. We took some photos of the "Letras Garibaldi" and walked along Paseo de las luminarias, the Mexican equivalent of the Hollywood Walk of Fame. Statues of famous Mexican stars from the worlds of music, motion pictures, and theatre lined the street. [Image 74] [Image 75]
From there, we strolled through the Plaza de Santo Domingo and onto the ruins of the Templo Mayor. These are the archaeological ruins of the ancient Aztec city of Tenochtitlan. There is a museum here that you can pay to visit, but it’s possible to get a good view of the ruins from the street. A large model beside the ruins illustrates the ancient city as it used to look. [Image 76] [Image 77]
We stopped for lunch at Boqueria Centro. Both of us ordered the fish and chips, along with some margaritas and beers. In Plaza Manuel Gamio, people dressed as Aztec warriors were performing traditional blessing ceremonies for those willing to make a donation. They had makeshift altars laid out on the ground with flowers and burning incense. The smell of sage wafted through the air. The Zócalo was packed with people, all taking in the atmosphere of the day. By this time, the giant ofrenda had been installed in the plaza. There were some statues of gunslingers dotted around. One spectacular construction in the likeness of Mexican revolutionary hero Pancho Villa towered over the people below. [Image 78] [Image 79] [Image 80]
Having skipped the Catedral Metropolitana on our previous visit to the Zócalo, we decided to take a look inside. The cathedral was built over several centuries and is magnificent, both inside and out. Be sure to look out for the enormous church organ in the heart of the interior! Donations can get you access to the Sacristía Mayor or the crypts. [Image 81]
Back outside, we perused the many stalls selling food, souvenirs, and toys. It seemed like every kid was playing with these inflatable pencils that soared high up into the sky when you bounced them off the ground. Definitely the must-have toy of the occasion! Dominique wanted to get her face painted calavera style, so we stood in line after reviewing the handiwork of several other options. It was about 150 pesos to get your face painted, and I decided to get mine done too.
While waiting in line, we watched as a few police officers showed up to talk to a man who was manning a stand selling t-shirts, hats, and other clothing. We couldn’t fully understand what the issue was, but it seemed to relate to a display stand that was situated beside the man’s store and how it might have been blocking foot traffic. The exchange went on for several minutes, and more and more police arrived. The response seemed a little heavy-handed. Another man showed up who seemed to be some sort of representative for the first guy, and he attempted to defuse the situation with the police. Eventually the police left, and we were nearing the front of the queue. With our faces now painted, we wandered some more around the square and took photos.
We headed back in the direction of home because we had decided to get food at this little taco stand near our house. We first stopped off at Drunkendog, a craft beer bar that we had walked by multiple times before on our way into Centro. Craft breweries are mostly wasted on us since we prefer easier-drinking beers like pilsners and lagers, and there are usually limited options for those. However, we liked what we tried, and they had a special Día de los Muertos-themed cocktail called "Ofrenda" that was really nice.
Here is where I proceed to describe our most precious find in Mexico City, gastronomically speaking, at least. Upon first glance, Maizajo looks like any other hole-in-the-wall taco stand. A counter faces out onto the pavement, and people can walk up and order from the menu. However, enter through the small door to the left of the storefront, and if you’re lucky enough to get a spot to stand at the longer counter within, you can eat and drink and be very merry indeed! The whole kitchen is open and decked out in gleaming industrial equipment and beautiful red tiles. The employees man their respective stations and dish out the most amazing Mexican street food you could ever want. Their tortillas are all made in-house using specially sourced maize and ancient preparation techniques. You can buy their tortillas in bulk if you wish. We came back here for food over the next two nights (yes, we liked it that much!), so I’ll touch back on Maizajo again. [Image 82]
Day 11
Since this was our second last day in Mexico City and we predicted a long day at the parade tomorrow, we decided to take it easy today, get some laundry done, and do most of the packing for our departure.
We headed for breakfast to a place nearby that Dominque had read about on lists of good places to eat. Chilpa had about a 30 to 40-minute wait time when we got there and was obviously very popular. For context, it was a Friday morning. They had a make-your-own chilaquiles bowl, which we both opted for. The food was really great; definitely recommended!
Later that evening, we headed to the Wallace Whisky Bar for some cocktails before heading back to Maizajo for food. We sampled some more items from the menu that we didn’t get around to ordering on the first night. Our favourite menu items were the “costras,” tortillas made of grilled cheese and filled with your choice of meat or mushrooms. They were divine! Our round of drinks was always a bottle of Victoria beer and a shot of mezcal.
Our server, Guillermo, was really friendly and guided us through the menu items in perfect English. He would end up taking our order every night we went there. We also got to talk with the owner and executive chef, Santiago, and we enthused wildly about his restaurant and the food. We learned that they have a full restaurant upstairs that opens seasonally on Sundays and offers a full menu that changes each night. There happened to be one coming up on the Sunday that we were leaving, and we were disappointed to miss it. [Image 83]
Day 12
Today was our final day in Mexico City and also the day of the big Día de los Muertos parade along Paseo de la Reforma. Finding accurate information about the parade start time and route online was difficult. From one source, we learned that it was expected to kick off around 2 p.m. and make its way along Reforma towards the final destination at the Zócalo.
We arrived at The Angel of Independence around 12 p.m., and things were already starting to get busy at that time. Lots of vendors had their stores set up, and the crowds were already scoping out and claiming the best spots along the parade route. Reforma consists of four traffic lanes running in each direction, with a pedestrianised median down the centre and nice, wide pavements on either side. The parade will run on one side of the eight-lane-wide avenue. Large, mature trees provide a canopy on the outer pavements, but the inner pavement is quite exposed to the sun. It was obviously less popular with the early crowds for that reason.
We found a spot on the canopied side beside some American tourists. If you want to get to the very front of the audience, I would advise getting there another hour or so before we did. I would also advise staying as close to The Angel of Independence as possible since the parade didn’t reach us until just after 4 p.m.; if it did indeed start at 2 p.m., the parade took over 2 hours to make it from the supposed assembly point of Bosque de Chapultepec to our spot not far away. Another suggestion is that if you do get to the front, find a spot where the curb is high enough to provide a free seat while you wait for the parade to reach your location.
Once the crowd starts to close in around you, it can get to around 10–12 people deep in places, and toilet breaks or trips to grab food or drinks are a big commitment. If you do have to step away, pick a landmark to watch out for on your return so you don’t get separated from your group. Vendors walked around selling tiny wooden stools, and since they were only 100 pesos each, we bought two. It was a good investment, despite having to shift sitting positions once in a while for comfort. People in our area were so desperate for the parade to go past that they let out enormous cheers when a parade employee went by with a trash cart. The second time it happened, he gleefully seized his moment of fame and waved to the cheering crowd.
The parade, when it did arrive, was amazing. The costumes, the music, the colour, and the marionettes were spectacular. It was a noisy affair, and several marching bands amped up the crowd, while synchronised dancers ensured a carnival atmosphere. Apparently, the parade, which now takes place every year, was never part of the Día de los Muertos traditional celebrations in Mexico City. After the James Bond movie Spectre featured a scene amidst the chaos of a fictional parade, the mayor of Mexico City decided to capitalise on the movie’s release, and the inaugural Día de los Muertos parade through the city took place in 2016. [Image 84] [Image 85] [Video 5]
I would say that the parade is definitely worth the effort, but it is a big commitment in both time and energy. From the time we arrived at 12 p.m. until the time the parade got to us, we had been waiting for about four hours, and we still left before we saw everything go by. We headed to Maizajo later that evening for one final goodbye and toasted our trip with beer, mezcal, and tacos.
After leaving the restaurant and saying goodbye to Guillermo, we sought out some Pan de Muerto, a type of sweet bread only found in stores around Día de los Muertos. Visiting several bakeries turned up nothing, and I was anxious we had missed our chance. We hit up a Walmart Express nearby, and we were thankfully able to grab a tray. Lucky too, since they were in the process of pulling them all from the shelves. Outside, an obedient dog waited at the "dog parking" while its owner was inside. [Image 86]
We went home to our apartment, made some coffee, and had a Pan de Muerto or two while finishing our packing. We had a long day of travel ahead of us. Onward to Argentina!
Final thoughts
I’m sure Mexico City would be a fantastic place to visit at any time of the year, but we were really glad we planned our first visit around Día de los Muertos. The atmosphere around the city was great, and the decorations and other artwork really added to our sense of awe at the beauty of the city.
Walking around the neighbourhood where our apartment was located, we could hear a lot of American and European accents. Mexico City got very popular during and after the pandemic as a base for "digital nomads," who were able to take advantage of the cheaper cost of living. Areas like Polanco, Roma Norte, and Condesa are very popular with tourists, but they are also a little bougie for our tastes. If we ever make a return trip to Mexico City, we’d likely stay closer to Coyoacán. That was our favourite area, and we wanted a little more of the traditional Mexican way of life.
Mexico has a reputation for being dangerous, and I am sure that those warnings are entirely justified. With that being said, we never really felt unsafe in Mexico City. There always seemed to be a good police presence driving around the streets at night. We spent most of our time on foot, and we were able to gauge whether we liked the look of the area ahead or if it was wiser to take a detour. Gated communities, or streets populated with buildings surrounded by high walls, barbed wire, and window bars, likely indicate a higher crime rate. Yes, there are people who will approach you looking to sell you things, but we never felt threatened or excessively bothered by anyone. Practise basic personal security; don’t have large wads of cash visible; keep an eye on your belongings; and don’t allow yourself to get distracted.
We really enjoyed the tours we had bought through Viator. The tour guides were great, and we were able to see some things we may not have seen otherwise. Having a local on hand to give you background on the history of a location was an additional bonus. However, as I mentioned, some parts of the tours could feel a little rushed, and you may prefer to hire a private car in order to give yourself maximum time at certain attractions. It’s not really the fault of the tour operators themselves, as traffic in Mexico City is horrendous.
Overall, we had a fantastic trip, and we didn’t really feel like we missed out on anything. We had enough days booked that we didn’t have to feel guilty about taking the occasional day off to be lazy and soak up the bar and restaurant life. We’ve definitely got more plans to visit other locations in Mexico in the future.
Viva Mexico! [Image 87]